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Home Member Build Ups Technical How To: Install a Snorkel - L400 Delica

How To: Install a Snorkel - L400 Delica

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How To: Install L400 Snorkel. (Series 2)  I assume this will work equally as well with the S1, Mine is V6, but again I assume Diesel is simmilar.

I am also assuming that simmilar concepts can be applied to any vehicle if you have the appropriate template for your car and snorkel!
I wrote this originally for Delicaclub and have reproduced it here!  Let me know if it is useful to you!

What I needed :)

Snorkel Kit (mine was $420 +postage from Delicashop - Including Template)
83mm hole saw (template says 84 but I found 83 in Bunnings which worked nicely.)  There is margin to make it larger also if you wish
13mm Steel bit
Hammer and Centre Punch
Small drill bit for starting hole (to keep on centre)
19/64 Drill bit
Electric drill
Marker pen
13mm ring ratchet spanner ****very useful with ratchet*****
Spanner with 10mm and 8mm sockets
Small flat Screwdriver,
Philips Screwdriver
Black Silicone sealant
Sharp Stanley Knife


I had a bit of a quick look around Deliclub, and was unable to find a set of instructions on installing the snorkel for the L400.  I thought I would do up a bit of a  how to for those that wanted to see the process and think about it before tackling their own..

1) Wash the panel to prepare it for the work it is easier to mark a clean panel, and better to adhere Silicone to.
Prepare Panel

 

2) remove the air filter.  Undo the 4x clips (Yellow arrows) the electrical connector (red arrow) and the circlip (Just beyond purple arrow - #10 socket)
Air Filter

 

3) Remove the air filter box by removing these 3x #10 bolts

4) Remove wheel (Front Right) and splash-guard (removing plastic scrivits, #10 bolts etc)  to uncover the air intake manifold

5) After removing the Air filter box this duct will fall away revealing the intake manifold inside the panel.  This intake manifold is retained by 3x #10 bolts marked with Yellow arrows in the next two photos

6) Then you can remove the intake manifold which looks like a rams horn to prevent water intake

 

7) Line up the template provided with all features as indicated on template.  I found the main features to watch were the window corner, indicator and headlight cut-out as indicated by the green arrows.
Red arrows indicate 13mm holes for bolts (The S1 leaves out the bolt hole which is "candy striped" - the most forward one) and purple arrow indicates 83mm intake hole

 

8- Using hammer and centre punch, FIRMLY punch the centre of each hole to be cut.  Aim to do it accurately with ONE STRIKE for each mark.

9) Slowly peeling back the template, you will easily see your marks which are best marked on the panel with the marker pen.

10) Using the small drill bit, pre-drill the holes to more accurately mark the centres this will prevent the larger drill bits from walking on the panel.  Follow this with the appropriate bits/hole saw to complete the task.


11) My snorkel was provided with a loosely fitted upper mounting bracket.  I ensured this was tightened before proceeding.

12) This is what the back of the base of the snorkel looks like.  It comes with large flat washers and #13 nyloc nuts.  Ensure all studs are firmly located in their threaded bases.

13) At this point, trial fit the snorkel, and mark the upper mount positions with marker pen.  Remove snorkel, centre punch pillar on marks, pre-drill with smaller bit (there are two thicknesses of metal here).  Now complete drilling the holes with the 19/64 bit which snugly fits the plastic lug bases for the supplied screws.
(unfortunately I don't have a photo of this bit but it speaks for itself!)

14) Apply black silicone to the surrounds of the holes, to the upper mounting holes and to the back of the snorkel around the studs, as well as the surround of the fitting section on the base.



15) Now fit he plastic base lugs to the pillar, re-fit the snorkel to the panel (being careful not to mess up the bead of silicone).  Screw in the upper mount screws nice and firmly before moving to fitting the nuts inside the panel.
16) This is where it is a little awkward…..especially the upper nut.  I used a small amount of silicone on my finger tip to help get the nut onto the stud (***after positioning all large flat washers***) and starting off the tread as best you can.

Thread each nut onto the studs by hand.  This is where the 13mm ring ratchet really comes in handy!!!!  With the limited working area, the end of the ring ratchet gets over the nuts and can be tightened down firmly with JUST enough room to remove the ring from the stud once fully seated (upper nut)


17) Fit the head of the snorkel with the circlip provided and fasten down firmly (#8 socket)

18- The wheel arch splash guard can now be re-fitted to the vehicle.


19) As you can see, the base of the snorkel protrudes through the inner guard by about 10mm

20) Now remove the felted gasket from around the old bent inlet pipe (mine was stuck down with double sided tape and removed quite easily.) Then, using a sharp Stanley knife, CAREFULLY cut where indicated on the dotted line.  It works easiest if, once inserted into the plastic, you rotate the fitting and hold the knife stationery

21) Now clean up the fitting surfaces of the airbox, inlet pipe (x2 ends) and the snorkel base/inner guard with mineral turpentine.  Observe the notch in the base of the air-box fitting indicated by the red arrow.

22) Now place a bead of silicone at the fitting end of the inlet pipe and seat fully into the base of the airbox it almost clicks into position.  Again, note alignment notch.


23) Similarly, place a generous bead of silicone around the base of the snorkel and replace airbox carefully so as not to knock out the inlet pipe (22 and 23 are best done in one movement before the silicone sets)


24) Replace #10 bolts in the base of the airbox, replace filter and cover not forgetting to replace the electrical cable when complete.  Tighten remaining circlip.


This is the extraneous pipe which was provided to go between the snorkel base and the air-box.  This looked awkward and clumsey, as well as having to cut a new hole into the airbox so I could re-seal another.  I feel this in inappropriate.

 

Now sit back and have a well earned beer!!  Working this out and taking photos as I went took me about 3 hours.  You may find it take you more or less than this, but the important thing is that you take your time so that you know you get a good seal.

Good Luck!

Hope this gives some-one else the confidence to do the job themselves.

Cheers,
Daz

Venga-Bus Captain!

Last Updated on Tuesday, 26 July 2011 22:26  

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